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OTA Tip
3/7/2008 2:15:04 PM
Submitted By: crimsoncommander@hotmail.com
 Tip: Looking for a case for your AR-6 or AR5, but cannot affort the JMI case for $350+? Look no further. EBAY-- Hard Shell Golf Travel Case ITEM# 220202568932 These are only $60!!! I got mine,and just lined it with some of that eggshell foam.
OTA Tip
3/7/2007 3:48:01 PM
Submitted By: kevin_saunders@rogers.com
 Tip: For anyone looking for silica gel packets for free try your local drug store. All prescription drugs come with these packets in them and I talked my pharmacist into saving them for me which I pick up periodically. They are great to have around for absorbing moisture when you telescope and accessories are stored. I also collect toys and use these packets to store with them to keep them preserved.
Mount Tip
2/10/2006 12:57:23 PM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
 Tip: Can't remove your Polar scope ring from the RA axis?



Boy I wish I had 10 cents for everyone who has had this problem.

The polar scope ring is one of the hardest pieces of the mount to remove, usually because Meade uses an enormous amount of thread lock there. (Why, I have no idea).

You will have to either use channel locks with leather in between the grips, or something like it in order to remove that collar.
We have a special tool I had made just for that reason, it fits into the threaded holes and allows me to turn the ring without much damage (if any) to it.
Most times you end up with a marred piece of metal that requires refinishing once you get it removed.
Just be careful not to damage the threads that hold the polar scope collimation screws in place.
A bench mounted vise really comes in handy here, or put the mount back on the tripod so you don't have to worry about it slipping away.
About 1/20 mounts are like what you are describing, I'm sorry you are the 1..

Hope that helps.
Richard
Mount Tip
10/14/2004 2:47:17 PM
Submitted By: jj_mclaughlin@hotmail.com
 Tip: To all those people who are having pointing problems with their LXD55 mounts. I had mine for over two years now. It was working fine till about six months ago. On the two star alignment, it would go about 10 to 15 degrees past the first alignment star. I would center the star and press enter. Same thing would happen to the second star. After, whenever I would choose an object, it would always go past the object by about 10 to 15 degrees.
One day I took the mount apart and noticed that the encoder wheels were a shiny silver metal. Having worked with encoders before, I figured that this might be sending bad or erratic pulses to the infrared decoder. To fix the problem, I took the board completely off the motor. If you do this be VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE ENCODER WHEEL. It is very fragile. I then put some Kleenex all around the motor and spray painted the encoder wheel on both sides with FLAT BLACK metal paint. Just spray a very LIGHT COAT on the wheel. YOU DO NOT WANT TO PLUG ANY OF THE HOLES ON THE WHEEL. When I was done, I could still see through the paint. The idea here is to just get rid of that shinyness of the wheel. I also did the same thing to the declination motor.
After doing all of the above, I did a (calibrate motors), then I did the (train drive).
Now my mount works GREAT. Had no problems with it since doing this. I hope this will be some help for some of you guys out there.
Thanks. J.J. the Stargazer.
Mount Tip
8/18/2004 8:04:15 PM
Submitted By: jcgx530@charter.net
 Tip: From Joe Guerra
One night, I turned on my LXD55, to find that it started slewing in Right Ascension and wouldn't stop! Luckily, after tooling around with it, i found a way to fix it. First, while the mount is still off, you need to remove the R.A. gearbox. Using an American 3/16 hex key, hold the gearbox with one hand, loosen the screw under the polar alignment scope until you can remove the box.
After the Gearbox is off, the gears will run but the mount won't move because it is detached from the mount. Turn on the autostar and under SETUP scroll down to RESET and press enter. After a second or two it should stop slewing. You do have to re-enter information but it does fix the problem. The software upgrade for autostar is what might be the cause of it. Hopefully this will help you if you ever encounter this problem.
OTA Tip
8/15/2004 2:44:44 PM
Submitted By: dawson.michelle@tiscali.co.uk
 Tip: From Martin Dawson, The York Astronomical Society.
When I received my AR-5, I was a surprised (disappointed...) at the cheapo/plastic cap for the EP end when not in use. In one evening I manufactured the following cap. I turned and bored a 1.25 aluminium cap, tee-shape in profile. The blank end I copied the pattern on the focussing knobs and diamond knurled the out side larger diameter, in size to match the focussing tube and bored a 0.95in. internal. The bore was topped out with a clear fit ring, held by three concentric M2.5 grub screws equally spaced. When packed with a silica gel package the ring holds this with a stainless steel mesh to stop it falling out into the OTA. This helps to both keep out foreign bodies and moisture. I'm probably not explaining my self, so e.mail me for further details.

PS if you don't have a lathe, check out a local evening class at a school or collage, or perhaps get your Astronomical Society's engineering expert to fabricate one!!!
OTA Tip
8/15/2004 11:00:47 AM
Submitted By: dawson.michelle@tiscali.co.uk
 Tip: As the rotery switch on the polar scope illuminater is not very positive, one of the members of The York Astronomical Society suggested to me placing a small spring under the knob - look at the distance between the knob and housing to work out the size of spring, obviously it wants to be a greater distance (size?) when not under compression - and hey it worked!!! This should prevent the switch from rotating and draining the battery when the telsecope is not in use. Most hobby dens, garage/workshops should come up with a old spring.
Mount Tip
7/26/2004 1:25:46 AM
Submitted By: croessus@yahoo.com
 Tip: I saw another tip that recommends using a rubber band to keep the polar alignment cap near the R.A. marks from falling off. If you don't want to deal with snapped rubber bands or want or more professional look then I recommend using a girl's hair scrunchy. For you guys who might not know what these are, girls use them to keep their hair in a pony tail and is basically a big rubber band. Some look frilly and come in all colors but the one I found is black and looks much like a rubber o-ring. It will probably last forever because it's virtually unbreakable.
Mount Tip
7/26/2004 1:12:58 AM
Submitted By: croessus@yahoo.com
 Tip: Are you looking for replacement rubber feet for your SN-10 tripod. I've found some door stop tips that work great. I found them at Lowes hardware but you may find them elsewhere such as Home Depot or another hardware store. I've seen different sizes that don't all work but mine are from a company called National and they come 6 to a box. There are two numbers on the package that I assume is the model number and type number. The numbers are N181-404 and V230T respectively. They're not quite as big or deep as the originals so they only fit up to the first notch level on the tripod legs but they fit snugly. They don't have a very thick wall so to give them a little more wall and a softer more rubber feel I've dipped them into a rubber poly compound called Poly-Sheild that you can find in the paint section of your local hardware store. I got mine at Orchard Supply. This stuff is usually used to coat the handles of hand tools. I recommend 4-5 coats. The more coats you use the thicker it gets. It comes in a spray aerosol and a dip but I prefer the dip. The tips run for about $1.00 and the optional poly dip $7.00 The poly dip is much more than you'll ever need enough to coat hundreds of these tips. Since the tips aren't expensive you might try using them without the poly dip if they wear out just replace them again. For about the price of the poly dip you can get about 14 sets of 3.
Mount Tip
6/18/2004 8:12:56 AM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
 Tip: DEC Slew in High Speed Only
Try this -
Have your scope powered on, and set the DEC slew to a low speed - like 3 or 4 on the AutoStar keypad.

Next, hold the DEC slew down on the keypad while the DEC axis on the scope mount is turning, and turning.
It'll possibly make 2 or 3 complete turns
around.
With any luck, the Autostar will 'detect' the problem and give you a "MOTOR UNIT FAILURE" message sometime during this process.

Press and hold the ENTER key on the AutoStar keypad, or the DEC slew down again until the
AutoStar resets.

Once the AutoStar resets and reboots itself, try the DEC slew again on a
slow speed - any better?

If that doesn't fix the problem you've either got an issue with the DEC motor itself, RA controller, or AutoStar. It's hard to find which one unless you have spares to test with that you know are good.

Rich
Setup Tip
6/9/2004 10:48:27 AM
Submitted By: steve_arnold_63@yahoo.com
 Tip: Save your polar finder scope batteries! I scoffed one of my daughter's lip gloss lids, which fits VERY snugly over the polar finder LED assembly, protecting the switch (in the off position) from accidentally being turned on. Works like a charm, and the tight fit means it's not going to be knocked off.
Optics Tip
5/14/2004 12:43:47 PM
Submitted By: mggerfin@cse.buffalo.edu
 Tip: Quick centering in finder.

Hey there, I just figured this out in my most recent observation session, and thought I'd share it with you folks. With an equatorial mount I sometimes find my OTA in awkward positions, making the centering of an object in the finder scope rather uncomfortable. And sometimes I have to sit there for a bit trying to center the object in the finder, as it can be hard for me to see the crosshairs.

Well, there's a better way to center the object!

Look through your finder scope, but keep both eyes open. Look at the object both through your finder and your open eye ... you will see two! Simply adjust the motor controls until the two objects become one ... and bingo, right in the center every time! I find this method to be much quicker and more accurate.

With a properly adjusted finder scope, I don't even have to remove high power eyepieces to get the object right in the middle of my EP's field of view. Enjoy!
Setup Tip
5/5/2004 2:42:56 PM
Submitted By: dawson.martin@Tiscali.co.uk
 Tip: This is my first time on this forum, so Hello!!
Problem, had my AR-5 a year and 4 months, fine for first year on cheapo battries, but recently nothing but trouble!!! must be something in the software, out of warrenty and the thing kicks in, slow motion was a problem when ever I wanted to track the telescope it took an age to move, then last Thursday the polar shaft motor would spin, but telescope would not move, so, I opened up the case (not as easy or straight forward, to remove the case, it is the Allan socket head screw right under neath the mount, its hidden away and it is about 4.75mm A/F key, not the two chrome Allan socket headed screws (they are 5mm), undo the four self-tappers, case pops apart, found the grub screw on the brass gear was loose (no screw lock, thanks Meade!!!) rotate gear so grub screw engages flat on shaft then reassembled. First time I tried it out the telescope would whizz all over, the mount tried to rotate 3 times while looking for Arcturus. I think the new battries (Duracell) have too much voltage prehaps? It settled down only after resetting and loosing all my values!! after looking at Venus (any one done so recently??)-- the thing went mad!! would not do as I asked, eg, selecting slow speed (any) and it would still track fast, display would go on the blink, and randomly moving the telescope, fast, not much fun with 40mm of Plossel shoved in your eye!!! any ideas would be welcome, either e.mail me or post them here, have any one else had the same problem's, sorry to go on so long, hope it also helps other's....
Mount Tip
1/31/2004 2:27:44 PM
Submitted By: poplues@westbrabant.net
 Tip: You may have noticed that the LXD55 GoTo-head is an excellent instrument but that it sits on top of a rather wobbly tripod. The tripod allows a lot of torsion and bending, which is a problem specifically with the long tubes of the AR-5 and AR-6. I replaced my tripod with the Skywatcher HEQ-5 tripod that I bought (without head and motordrives) from my local dealer for $150. The LXD55 head fits perfectly (with minimum modification) to the sturdy HEQ-5 (round-legged) tripod. A small investment that makes your LXD55 set-up Absolutely Stable. Especially interesting for refractor users.
OTA Tip
10/18/2003 6:10:52 AM
Submitted By: tom.stock@yahoo.com
 Tip:
Tired of that polar finder cap falling off the scope?

Place a rubber band around the cap just above the battery/switch knob. The rubber band will keep the cap from falling off when you bump it or move the scope.

Tom
Mount Tip
9/29/2003 11:47:07 AM
Submitted By: ALUN@halsey593.freeserve.co.uk
 Tip: AUTOGUIDER FOR LX200/AUTOSTAR
AT THE MOMENT I AM LOOKING INTO THE POSSIBILITIES
OF THE AUTOGUIDER MENU WITHIN COAA'S ASTROVID SOFTWARE I HAVE USED ON A COUPLE OF NIGHTS WITH GOOD RESULTS USING THE STELLACAM VIDEO CAMERA AND THE LXD55 MOUNT. ANYONE INTERESTED GO TO WWW.QCUIAG.CO.UK CLICK ON THE DOWNLOAD LINK AND YOU WILL FIND A LINK TO ASTROVID,ITS A 21 DAY TRIAL AFTER WHICH YOU WILL HAVE TO REGISTER TO CONTINUE USE.
Mount Tip
8/11/2003 2:54:48 PM
Submitted By: wildsong@hotmail.com
 Tip: There is an awesome aftermarket product for the LXD55 Mount, especially if you are prone to travel and don't want to keep guessing just where you are (geographically speaking, that is). Simple, works great, and has a few special bonuses:

GPS Unit from Scopetronix for the LXD55!

They supply the cables, software, etc. And, if you have some navigation software on that Laptop or Handheld, a special USB cable is "orderable," as well.

Well worth the price, considering all the non-astronomical applications you can use it for.
OTA Tip
8/7/2003 12:28:19 PM
Submitted By: Caravan208@earthlink.net
 Tip: AR-6 owners: If you are not happy or satisfied with the short dewshield that Meade includes with this scope, you can have another, longer dewshield that won't cost you your next eyepiece savings.

8" sonotube is almost a perfect fit for the AR-6.

Depending on the quality of the outside finish, you may have to use a small amount of autobody glazing putty to fill in the tube lines if you really want it looking nice.

After you've filled the tube lines, spray paint with Krylon or another quality paint any gloss color you like. I used white to match the OTA. After you have several coats of paint, allow to dry, and then use spray polyurathane to seal the paint and the paper tube. Spray the poly on the inside of the tube as well. Paper will absorb this stuff so several coats are needed. Same with the paint.

When the whole thing is dry, use some black felt found at Wally-World and a can of spray adhesive to line the inside of the dewshield. Measure carefully the circumference and length and cut to fit. Carefully spray a little at a time inside the shield and place the felt square in the opening and work your way around until the ends meet.

Note: Do not cut the length of the felt past the objective cell.

To fit the new shield to the cell mount, use a hot glue gun and glue small strips of the felt to the mounting bumps for the stock shield. You should need no more that two strips together per bump to get a snug fit on the cell.

The new dew shield looks and functions much better than the stock. You could also baffle it if you'd like. I thought about some sort of set screws, but it would more than likely not work well with a cardboard tube.

I've used mine now for four months and it has held very well with just the felt.
OTA Tip
7/21/2003 8:06:26 AM
Submitted By: jausubel@earthlink.net
 Tip: A "tour" size golf travel bag works perfectly as a carrying case for the OTA. You can even find models with wheels.
Optics Tip
7/11/2003 8:44:02 PM
Submitted By: ranger411@worldnet.att.net
 Tip: I just got my sn10 and what is the first thing i should do? And i dont no any thing about collimation of this scope,but i looked in the front of the scope and saw a ring with a hole in it(like a donut with a hole in it)And i got that new LASERMATE DELUXE which is for a newtonian scope,they told me that it would work on the sn10,but there were NO INFORMATION ON HOW TO USE IT ON A SN10? SOME ONE TOLD ME THAT YOU COULD COLLIMATION WITH ONE PERSON?HOW?I took the scope out and the moon looked good but the star was a v
and when out of focus,i got like a egg shape left and right,from what little i no,i dont think the scope is alignment, needs to be done.And when i try to take the scope off the cradle one of the rings wont unsrew,its to tight,i have to take the screws off the other side.THANKS FOR ANY HELP.And who makes the best filters?
Mount Tip
7/9/2003 7:05:17 AM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
 Tip: This addresses:
Alignment problems, Encoder Wheels, AutoStar pulses, LXD55 motor, motors

If you are having trouble with your encoders giving the Autostar false pulses - one thing you can do is this; and proceed with CAUTION.
The encoders wheels are very fragile. You can and most likely will bend them, you can over tighten the shaft, bending it as well.
These are not field replaceable. In other words, Meade isn't going to send you a new one if you dork it up. They will ask you what you were doing - then void your warranty on the motor.
This is a radical fix, and you should not do this unless you are having GOTO and or tracking problems and feel comfortable knowing you can disable your motor entirely.
You will have to completely dismantle the motor electronics to do this.
First try setting up your Autostar correctly, and testing your motors in a different way.


<<>>

Remove the encoder(s) from the motor shaft.
Set them up on a raised surface (where the top and bottom aren't touching anything. We use a special made stand for them)
Paint both sides, flat black. NOT using too much paint as you can close off the slits.
Reinstall the encoders with a distance of about 1mm or 2mm off the backside of the read surface, or just so that it isn't touching.

We have performed this trick on many mounts, and it used to be a standard practice with all Hypertunes, but we found not all mounts needed the fix. So we stopped doing it unless they were having odd pulsing problems.

Since the encoders are a shiny aluminum surface, sometimes they reflect and send misread pulses to the Autostar, thus causing it to lose it's orientation and send the telescope off target from where it was going.

Richard
OTA Tip
6/20/2003 1:00:11 PM
Submitted By: tml@ados.com
 Tip: This really isn't a tip (yet), simply an inquiry.
I've got the tube apart, mirror removed from cell. Have any of you cut say (3) aprx 1.5" dia holes in the plastic piece that's under the mirror to perhaps help with cooling? Thoughts ?

Kind of a couple tips though. My cell came with Aluminum uprights, not the rubber as in the "clipectomy" guide. There were 1/4" holes already drilled, and black silicone squirted thru as in the guide.

Well I removed the mirror, tapped the holes 5/16-18, then used nylon screws, cut off, and a slot cut in the "top" so as to be able to tighten with a straigt screw driver.

I also removed the wimpy springs, and replaced them with larger dia. and more resistant compression. This should help prevent the cell from shifting.

I can send pics if anyones interested. Just let me know your e-mail address.
Setup Tip
6/17/2003 7:36:14 PM
Submitted By: ranger411@worldnet.att.net
 Tip: I just ordered my sn10 and well get it in a week,what i need to no is what do i do first,they told me that the scope was collimatored,but when you send it though the mail,i think it may needed to be checked.HOW and since it is a Schmidt-Newtonian i was told it is collimated differnt.Is there some thing i need to get to do this.I want to take pictures of MARS and use my K2 PENTAX ASAHI but i dont no what attachment i need from the camera to the telescope,and do i need to use a eyepiece in the attachment between the camera and telescope.I am new at this,this is my first telescope in 30 years.Is there other things i should look at when i first get the scope.Like things that would require me to send back to meade
What is the easyest way to collimat this scope.THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME THANK YOU.
OTA Tip
6/15/2003 5:46:56 AM
Submitted By: Hypertune advice: middle screw on worm gear rack
 Tip: When you are trying to adjust the fit of the worm gears in the RA and Dec drives, make sure you do not try to force the middle screw without loosening the other four screws on the apparatus. The threads are easily stripped when you do this. The middle screw determines the spacing of the worm gear to the main gear. The two screws on each side of it tilt it one way or the other. The other two screws are accessed from the outside of the motor housing and seem to be there to hold the whole thing in place. I'm not too sure why they are there but they are and when you adjust the gear drive to just the right setting, when you tighten the two outside screws it makes the setting too tight and you have to go back and reset the three inside screws. Just remember to loosen the other screws before you try to turn the middle screw in. Otherwise you can strip the threads. If this happens you will have to get the next larger screw and retap the hole. The metal is very easily crumbled. It must be cast aluminum.
Jim Smith
OTA Tip
6/15/2003 5:44:18 AM
Submitted By: Hypertune advice: worm gear attachment
 Tip: When you are doing your hypertune and you get to the part where you re-attach the worm gear racks to the main gears be especially careful to install them so that there is no play or slop. This is a tricky adjustment because you have to use 5 screws to do this. You don't want it so tight that it binds the motors but it must have no slop. The worm gear itself may need a little adjustment if it has a little back and forth play. The reason for this is that just a very small amount of slop here, like 1/16 inch, translates to maybe an inch or more at the end of the optical tube. It makes alignment of the tube (LXD55 Adjust) almost impossible, consequently your autoaligns will not work very well. I speak from experience.
Jim Smith
Mount Tip
5/1/2003 4:10:46 PM
Submitted By: reckc@alltel.net
 Tip: When I received my LXD55 scope, I made up my mind I would not be using the method of powering my scope with that poor pack that comes with the scope. I had thought of using a small tractor utility battery. Then I found the ideal set up.

I purchased a Speedway 2 in 1 jumpstart w/ air compressor, item 05134 from Hormiers. Their address is www.Hormier.com This item is listed at $29.99. It's can be recharged,it's spill proof and you don't have to worry about running out of power. You could even start your car with it after using it all night! This jumpstart has a small light attached to it that can be used when packing up for the evening.

This is what I did to improve my jumpstart. I
modified it by installing an illuminated (red) rocker on off switch, a small automotive fuse and jack in the case. I took notice of the Meade battery pack wiring polarity. I cut the battery pack wiring off,close to the pack, and installed the wires taking note of the polarity observed to a male jack that would fit the female counterpart now installed in the jumpstart case.

The parts I required were the rocker switch,fuse holder,fuse 1 1/4 amp and the jack set--all obtained at Radio Shack.

I would suggest to anyone not familiar with electrical work to have someone make the modification for them. Connecting to the correct polarity is important and caution while working within the jumpstart is only common sense.

If a person did not want to make the modifications that I have,the unit unit has a cigarette lighter receptacle on the side of it. All that would be necessary would be to purchase a male cigarette plug and install it on the scope battery pack wires that you'd cut off.

I saved my receptacle for my dew zapper.
OTA Tip
4/27/2003 7:54:42 AM
Submitted By: earshot@midamer.net
 Tip: I have seen it somewhere before, but it is worth repeating. The fit between the top of the tripod mount and the bottom of the motors mount on my SN10 was too tight. I removed the legs from their mount, backed-out the fine azimuth knobs and turned the two parts upside down to check the fit. It took a dremel tool with a sanding drum to remove the high spots inside the tripod mount.
I could feel them with my fingertip. Now, when re-assembled I can't slip a piece of paper between the two pieces, they are flush and snug. If there is any gap in yours, the tripod will not be quite as solid.
Mount Tip
4/27/2003 7:25:27 AM
Submitted By: earshot@midamer.net
 Tip: This may help some of the tripod flex that is so prevalent. Check the cast steel piece on the lower end of the center leg of each leg assembly. Two out of three of mine were loose.
OTA Tip
4/14/2003 8:54:50 AM
Submitted By: lchurch@netdirect.net
 Tip: I wanted to build a transport case for my SN10" scope, but I would rather spend the time outside under the stars. I did find a plastic case made by RubberMaid that is large enough to have good foam padding for a cradle and I have inserts for the top that hold the scope steady with the lid closed and latched. If interested, call RubberMaid at 1-800-998-8852, ex 5968 and order item #1192. About $75.00 shipped.
Setup Tip
3/27/2003 1:31:29 PM
Submitted By: notify@LXD55.com
 Tip: Many of you have asked about, how to setup your mouny quickly, yet still have it be accurate

This is going to be talked about more indebth, in the up-and-coming video here at LXD55.com called "Using your scope under the nighttime sky" , but...

So you want to have a quick setup? Here's what you do - (this works the same if you have the LX200 by the way)
1) Level Tripod
2) Polar Align mount
3) Set Time / Date
4) Chose an object in the sky to GOTO

huh? No alignment? RIGHT! The scope will most likely be off a few degrees (unless you are blessed with a perfect mount) when you goto the first object though, read on...

GOTO an object you know, like M42 (Great Orion Neb). Center the Object up in the field of view, press and hold Enter and sync the object with the AutoStar..

You should only have to repeat this twice.. What? Huh? You mean, it's a two star alignment kinda? - without the two stars?
YES, that's right..
Get to viewing! Not setting up!
It works nicely, and you can have your scope setup and tracking within 5 minutes..
Enjoy!
Richard
LXD55.com
OTA Tip
3/9/2003 9:46:18 PM
Submitted By: rosswnelson@hotmail.com
 Tip: More a question.
I have an EQ5 skywatcher 8" reflector. Drives are not great in my opinion and was wondering if anyone knew if meade sold just the drives for the lxd55 (with autostart stuff, and the electronic circle thingys needed for the goto) by them selves? dont want new mount or scope, just drives and circles.
Anyone?

If this is not the right section for this please kick it where it belongs.
Cheers
Ross
OTA Tip
3/4/2003 7:08:05 PM
Submitted By: kuizab@netscape.net
 Tip: AR-5/6 OTA case. Just got a SKB golf bag hard shell travel case. Model 2SKB-4812WD. Works absolutly fabulously as an OTA case. Just get some foam, a little cutting and wahla. Cost: $106 + shipping from Explore Products, Inc./exploreproducts.com.



OTA Tip
3/1/2003 12:58:40 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: There have been several posts regarding alignment of the secondary mirror under the focuser. The secondary should have a 1/8" offset away from the focuser (taken care of by the secondary mounting) and 1/8" towards the primary. Although, some people will debate the effectiveness of this offset. There are templates in Tips&Tricks guide posted on the LXD55Telescopes Yahoo forum for both center spot location of the primary and the center and 1/8" offset of the secondary for an SN10. Questions? Email me.
OTA Tip
3/1/2003 12:37:55 PM
Submitted By: re:SN-6 colimation tip
 Tip: I don't claim to be a collimation expert, however I do believe that cutting a spring to place the center point of the diagonal directly beneath the center of the focusser is incorrect. I am assuming that you discovered this with a laser.
The reason is the secondary is intentionally placed away from the focusser and toward the primary by approx. 1/8" is, in a fast (f/6 and lower optic system)the cone of light from the primary will not fully intersect a secondary that is centered on the optical axis.
I know this doesn't seem right, but it is. It is called offset.
Look at http://w1.411.telia.com/~u41105032/kolli/kolli.html
Error #2 will accurately depict the offset.
Please let me know what you think, or correct me if I an wrong.
OTA Tip
2/27/2003 12:59:04 PM
Submitted By: strengthen that mount
 Tip: I have found that 2 stips of 1/8" thick rubber
approximately 1" x 3" at the very top of each leg
makes the legs more sturdy.
The rubber pieces "sandwich" between the 3 leg
parts.
I did this because I found the center portion of
the leg assembly wiggles freely at the top.
This may only work well if the mounts legs are
not extended.
When the rubber pieces are installed and compressed
by tightening the wing nuts at the top of the leg
assembly the entire leg is more like a solid beam.
I also, as suggested, removed the nylon washers
at the leg pivot point and tightened the pivot quite
firmly.
This works well on my sn 10", let me know if it works
for you.
OTA Tip
2/26/2003 4:17:59 PM
Submitted By: rcfs@look.com
 Tip: SN-6 collimation tip…
Mark the center of the secondary mirror and you’ll discover this center can not be brought up to the center plane of the focuser.
The reason is the spring behind the secondary holder is too long. You need to snap that spring into half, making it shorter, then, the center spots will lineup. As always, your scope may vary as mine, please make sure that’s what you need to do as I did.
Clear Skies.
OTA Tip
2/8/2003 11:42:08 PM
Submitted By: theshoo@hotmail.com
 Tip: I made a great dew shield for my LXD55 10" SN. Bought a mylar sunshade (for auto windshield) at the dollar store. Lined it with black flannel And attached it to my scope with velcrow. Total cost under five bucks. :-)
OTA Tip
2/2/2003 2:01:34 PM
Submitted By: Setup for those with Kids around... becareful
 Tip: Set up your LDX55SN with kids in the area and their natural and 1st inclination is to touch the corrector plate. Anyway... a great tip... keep it covered and warn them that touching that will "ruin it... yep... got to be sent back to the factory". Maybe hard to keep sticky Skiddle candy residue off that corrector plate by any method mentioned on this site (except hot soapy water!!!)
OTA Tip
2/2/2003 1:40:19 PM
Submitted By: Balancing
 Tip: I used the single fulcrum method to double check the Declination balance of the OTA (moving it front to back within the cradle) by taking it off and laying it on a broom stick handle. At the balance point of the cradle mount (where the large knob (with red center piece) tightens down the OTA & Cradle should balance. May need to change this a bit when adding Barlows, Camera, etc so do this with what you think you may normally have on the focuser. I think a good indication of balance is the sound or tone of the motors when you move them in RA/Dec. < and > the motors should sound the same and ^ and v they should sound the same. A low pitch means that that motor is working harder in that direction and the balance may be off.
OTA Tip
2/2/2003 1:30:02 PM
Submitted By: JayDAnderson@adelphia.net
 Tip: I don't have the corner on the market when it comes to an occasional dumb thing... here it is so you don't do it... My 12 yr old son is sitting on a chair reading out the instructions for the Meade LXD55SN10 and I am picking the pieces out of the boxes and assembling them. I add the 30 pounds of counterweights to the mount and the OTA isn't on it yet. The weights are up in the air. I relase the RA and Dec to arrange the position so that I can easily place the OTA on the mount. The weights swing wildly around under their own weight and whoosh past my kids head. He looks up from the instruction sheet as he feels the "wind" and says, "Geeze dad!" Can anyone beat that? Anyway... I feel better having got that out in the air.
OTA Tip
1/24/2003 5:42:08 PM
Submitted By: Precision balance your OTA
 Tip: There is a neat trick I learned a long time ago for easily finding the center of gravity, or "balance point", of just about any object. It is more precise, and easier to execute, then the "single fulcrum" method described on the message board. I'll call it the "double fulcrum" method, although I'm sure it has an official name. It is easy to illustrate using a pencil. Hold out your two index fingers so that they point directly ahead of you and are approximately the same height. Seperate them by about 4 inches. Have someone rest a pencil on your two fingers. Now, VERY slowly and carefully move your two index fingers closer together, making sure that they stay approximately level. The pencil will stick to one finger and then the other, back and forth, as the weight is re-distibuted over each fulcrum. When your fingers finally touch, the point exactly between them will be the center of gravity of the pencil. You can perform this technique on larger objects, like a telescope, by putting two wooden dowels, or any kind of smooth rods, on a table top. Set the telescope on top of the dowels. Make sure the telescope is touching nothing but the dowels. Gently and slowly slide or roll one of the dowels towards the other until they touch. Be careful to not move the dowels too quickly. Give the scope time to re-locate it's balance point as you move the dowel. When the dowels come together mark the spot between them on a piece of tape which you apply to the OTA. Label the mark with the FL of the eyepiece that is currently attached. While your there do the same re-balancing with your other eyepieces. From then on whenever you change eyepieces you'll know exactly where to re-center your OTA in the cradle. A balanced OTA will make slewing easier on you and your motors.
Setup Tip
1/14/2003 7:31:39 AM
Submitted By: emckinnon@northropgrumman.com
 Tip: Over the last 10 years I have owned various Meade and Celestron scopes, Including a couple NEXSTAR models, a Meade LX-90 and 200, as well as an ETX-125. However until my AR-6, I haven't had to deal with Polar alighnment for about 15 years. With all the mentioned scopes I've had good and bad nights with the GOTO accuracy in ALT/AZM. I've read about a dozen different techniques for polar allignment, with some of them sounding a bit too time consuming for my taste. So, here's my simple setup for visual observations. I'm not sure if I hit all the points I'm suppossed too, or if I'm really doing it by the book, but I will say without exageration that I have never had anything fall outside the FOV using it and it is simple. It takes less than 5 minutes if you use your scope at the same latitude every night. So, here it is: 1. Place the tripod/mount at observation location, with north leg pointing north and tripod/mount resonably leveled. 2. Center Polaris in the polar finder by moving the tripod and adjusting latitude if necessary using the fine adjustment T-handles. 3. Level tripod/mount. I use a simple line bubble, checking various locations. 4. Recheck polaris and if necessarry recenter by moving the tripod (usually less than an inch or two in any direction, if this much). 5. Attach the OTA and set in Polar Home position (eye-ball). Tighten the RA and DEC knobs. 6. Check for Polaris through OTA. Adjust using the fine adjustmant knobs and/or T-handles. That's it and your ready for Autostar. Works for me and I've had better and more consistant goto results. After the first time you do this, it literaly takes only a few minutes to setup especially if you use it at the same location.
Setup Tip
12/31/2002 3:22:15 PM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
 Tip:

A Quick Setup with Equatorial drive in motion
1) Setup Scope, level and align Polar axis using Polar finder scope (rough alignment is okay)
2) Turn on power, set date and time and observing location
3) When the AutoStar prompts for an alignment method - hit the Mode key (Your now in Terrestrial Mode)
4) Press the scroll key a few times to bring up the Targets Menu, switch from Terrestrial to Astronomical

That's it, you now can use the Arrow keys to go anywhere in the sky, or Slew -and you can disconnect the drive locks to move the scope manually if you want. You basically have a working GEM mount with a running RA drive.
Richard Harris
Setup Tip
12/15/2002 4:25:30 PM
Submitted By: gemmalady@msn.com
 Tip: Using your Palm Pilot to drive your telescope, or tell you what your scope is currently pointed at. You need the #505 cable (same one you use to download Autostar firmware to your telescope), a gender changer, a null modem adapter and the Hot Synch cable that came with your Palm. Also, you can use Planetarium software (mentioned elsewhere here) and the LX 200 driver loaded onto your Palm. When connected, a telescope icon will let you know you are hooked in.
OTA Tip
12/14/2002 11:41:39 PM
Submitted By: jaydanderson@adelphia.net
 Tip: For those wondering what their Latitude is for setting up their telescope's polar mount or plantarium software... other than using a GPS you might try www.heavens-above.com . This site will give you a fairly accurate local latitude and longitude as well as elevation (possibly somewhat even less accurate). I am in Stafford, Virginia... it is amazing how many "Staffords" there are in the USA. I am at 38.4220N and -77.4090W and 69 Meters above sea level if you are ever in this neck of the woods.
Optics Tip
12/13/2002 10:11:41 AM
Submitted By: weisheit@pro-bw.de
 Tip: For AR5 (and even AR6) users: Keep your objective-lens cool: My AR5 shows a very small amount of false colour, when the lens is cooler than the surrounding air. This had been confirmed by an optics specialist from Baader Planetarium. Bringing my Scope out of a cold cellar into warmer air outside, I always get crisp images with only a very small trace of false colour. In this case this special refractor shows an nearly half-apochromatic image-quality! I cold even use magnifications up to 502x (4,7mm Meade UWA + Barlow!) without image-breakdown. Also check out, that your focuser is well aligned and shows to the center of the objetive. And of course, the fixing ring of the objective-cell should not be tightend too much. It should just prevent the lens from slipping around in her cell - without squeezing it.
OTA Tip
12/3/2002 8:05:25 AM
Submitted By: akurei_uindo@yahoo.com
 Tip: Decisions, decisions. I ordered a 10" SN LXD55 in October. Naturally, Meade just released the 8" Schmidt-Cassegrain (exactly the same optics as the LX200 8" SC) on an LXD55 mount. Naturally Meade will not say if they plan on releasing a 10" SC (using LX200 optics) on an LXD55 mount. So the decision I face now is... Should I trade-off 2" of aperature (and pay $200) to go with the better optical system in the 8" SC on the LXD55 (which is the same as putting an 8" SC LX200 OTA on an LXD55 mount) or should I stick with the 10" SN LXD55? Do you think that Meade will release a 10" SC (using the superior LX200 Optical system) on an LXD55 mount. What would you guys do? P.S. Did anyone see the evaluation of the LXD55 series (excluding the newest member--8"SC LXD55) in the December issue of Sky and Telescope? And if so, how well do you think they did in their assessment of the LXD55s? Thanks in advance. Akurei Uindo "Live people ignore the strange and unusual. I, myself, *am* strange and unusual." --Lydia Deetz (from the movie "Beetlejuice")
OTA Tip
11/26/2002 4:12:56 PM
Submitted By: Keeping out the moisture
 Tip: Here is an idea for those of us plagued by dew residue after a night of viewing. Based on some other posts, I did a little searching and came up with this. Take a 35mm film canister, drill some small (1/8")holes in the bottom and sides of it, cut a 4"x4" square of linen gauze, put a couple of grams of sodium silicate crystal in the center of the gauze, tie up the corners with thread, stuff it in the film cannister, put the lid back on the cannister and put in your focuser tube. This will suck up any moisture trapped in the OTA. Make a second cannister and put in your eyepiece case. Go to Walgreens or you local discount gadget store and get four round (flat type) of pill boxes. Drill the same holes, stuff with the dessicate, put a piece of velcro on the top or bottom, put the other half of the velcro on the inside of your OTA cover. I use two at each end of the scope. This allows me to keep both ends covered with no moisture buildup. Here is a link where you can get the silicate gel (900 grams will cover it all for $16.80. You can recharge the dessicate crystals once a month by baking them in the oven. Here are the links: http://www.brent-krueger.com/silica.html and http://preservesmart.com/products.htm#SilicaGelDesiccants Hope this is useful.
OTA Tip
11/24/2002 7:29:39 AM
Submitted By: mglancaster@talk21.com
 Tip: Loose secondary cap: I recently purchased the 10" SN. When unpacking the scope and removing the dust cover for the first time I was horrified to find that the plastic cap that covers the secondary mirror collimation screws (the one with the Meade logo on it) was resting on the corrector plate. It had obviously worked loose during shipping. Moreover the loose cap had scratched the surface of the corrector plate, as it must have moved across the surface during transit. The secondary cap simply slots into the top of the secondary mirror support and does not appear to clip on like a camera lens cap for instance. Surely it would have been a simple matter for Meade to design a cap that clips on, or even better threads on to the secondary support. The cap will only work loose when the telescope is shipped, stored, or positioned in a horizontal or inverted position and some vibration is applied. Mike Lancaster, Derbyshire, UK
OTA Tip
11/19/2002 11:40:57 PM
Submitted By: dlvett@isys.ca
 Tip: Cleaning optics - finger prints on the corrector plate as an example - is always a challenge. The following link from Tele Vue site may help. http://www201.pair.com/resource/astro.html/regular/products/tele-vue-optics/cleaning.htm
Mount Tip
11/19/2002 1:38:55 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: Polar Home Setup: Before you start, have three sets of alignment arrows cut out from the template in the files section. Once a correct polar alignment is done, I simply embed three concrete filled juice cans below ground level, used a permanent marker to trace the outline of my Orion pads onto the top of the cans. Now when I set up, line the pads up on the cans and put the legs in the center of the pads - quick and easy. Next, I align the three sets of arrows on my mount which I applied using the below procedure. This first part can be done indoors or out. Remove the head from the tripod and level the mount indoors on a good solid floor. Once I was sure the tripod and head were adjusted to level, I silicone two round bubble levels - one to each of the top of the two back legs - ensuring that they were indicating "level" - bubbles centered. Let the silicone set up overnight and recheck to make sure the bubbles are still centered before you continue. Remove the counterweight shaft dovetail and rings. Place a small carpenters level across the saddle plate head lined up in a north-south orientation. Adjust the latitude adjustment handle to lower the mount until the level reads centered. Now loosen the DEC lock and rotate the saddle head with the level in place until it points in an east-west orientation. Loosen the RA lock and rotate the mount around the RA access one way or the other until the bubble is centered. Keep making little adjustments on both axis(es) until you can turn the saddle plate a full 360 degrees without the bubble moving from centered position. Use the latitude adjustment handle again to tilt the head up. Replace the counterweight bar. Lower the head and adjust the fine azimuth control knobs until the counterweight bar is centered between the two outer tubes of the front leg. Tighten (snug) both fine azimuth control knobs. During this step, the ONLY knobs used to make adjustments are the latitude t-handles. Without moving the DEC or RA orientation (keep the locks tight). Take the scope outside to your favorite viewing spot (or somewhere close with a clear surface). Adjust the tripod legs to get the mount level. Reinstall the counterweights so there is realistic weight on the mount (you could also have the scope rings and OTA mounted for more accuracy). Recheck the leg heights to make sure the bubble levels are still indicating level. Point the north leg (one with the star) as close to north as you can get it. Using the polar scope align on the north celestial pole (close is good enough). Move the tripod by hand and use the latitude adjustment handles to align the NCT. Do not loosen the RA and DEC locks - do NOT use autostar (the scope should be off). Once you get a fairly close alignment tighten both latitude handles to lock the position. Now take the three sets of alignment arrows and apply one set to the RA axis, one set to the DEC axis and one set between the tripod head and mount (between the back two legs is a good location). From this point on, all you should have to do is put the feet of your tripod in the same place and line up the arrows for an accurate starting Polar Home Position. If you change viewing locations, you will have to use the fine azimuth controls to re-center the NCP and can ignore the third set of arrows.
OTA Tip
11/12/2002 11:32:07 PM
Submitted By: rkuna@houston.rr.com
 Tip: My SC-8 got here Monday 11-11-2002. I was happy to get mine, but I had some problems with it.Getting it,thats the good news. The problem I had was mainly the mount, it seemed like it was had been used. Scratched paint nothing wrapped up, missing polar scope cover. It just like it had been used and abused. And I kept getting dec motor fault from the autostar, Oh yah the finder scope was blue. I contacted Meade and I’m sending the mount back for a new one, plus they are going to swap out the finder scope for a white one. Clear Skies
Setup Tip
11/5/2002 12:12:26 PM
Submitted By: brett.black@mindspring.com
 Tip: For pytom -- In reply to your question on using the polar alignment scope. There's not much to it, really, and it is described step by step in "Appendix B: Enhancing Pointing Precision" of the LXD55 manual.
Setup Tip
11/3/2002 5:49:53 PM
Submitted By: pytom@texas.net
 Tip: Sorry, but this is a question rather than a tip.... I now have my first German mount since I bought a C8 about 20 years ago and recently purchased an LXD55 as a mount for a 4" Genesis and a 6" CR-150HD. Can someone help me with instructions for using the polar alignment scope that came with the LXD55? The Meade LXD55 Users Manual is even less helpful than the new LX200GPS Users Manual. I will appreciate any help and am quite impressed with the mount itself. Thanks, Tom
Setup Tip
11/1/2002 10:58:38 AM
Submitted By: tom_gideon@hotmail.com
 Tip: Planetarium Palm Software... The tip from Tom was missing the biggest feature. If you have the Meade #506 cable, and a 9-pin null modem adaptor, you can drive the mount using the Planetarium software and the stylus. VERY COOL.
Setup Tip
10/31/2002 9:35:55 PM
Submitted By: mykrowyre@yahoo.com
 Tip: Having trouble finding that bright star during alignment? Buy a palm pilot (you can get an m100 for around $50) and download/buy "Planetarium" from http://www.aho.ch/pilotplanets . When autostar picks a star, you can look it up on your palm pilot and see a star chart of it's location in the sky. This makes setup much quicker. Also, if you are doing a rough align by sync'in on a bright star, you can look it up on the palm and then select it on autostar and hit sync. Planetarium has a database similar in size to autostar. -tom
OTA Tip
10/28/2002 11:25:05 AM
Submitted By: GrumpaBob@hotmail.com
 Tip: I have had trouble getting free motion of both the RA and Dec bearings on the LXD55 Mount. I read a post that recommended putting thicker washers between the RA assembly and the Dec assembly to loosen up the motion. I removed the two screws holding the RA assembly and Dec assembly together and sanded the mating faces flat. One casting face has a continuous bearing surface that is flat and circular. The other casting face has three raised bosses. The designer probably figured having three bosses would eliminate rocking between the castings. There are four threaded holes for the two screws to engage. When I lined up the arrows for the polar position, the screws engaged the two threaded holes that were between the bosses. This allows the castings to deform because the load is between the supports. If I rotated the castings 90°, the screws engage the holes that are through one of the bosses, and between the other two. I assembled the head using these holes, with the alignment arrows at 90° instead of aligned, and both bearings ran much freer, even without thicker washers. I believe this is a better orientation for the castings and minimizes casting deflection, so I removed the arrows and will replace them with Warp's arrows in the new locations. You can determine the orientation of the screws without disassembling the head by examining the gap between the castings where the screws are located. If the gaps are short (14mm and 25mm) when measured along the circumference, then it is assembled as I recommend. If they are long, (80mm) then you may be getting excessive casting deflection. Grump
Setup Tip
10/27/2002 11:22:48 AM
Submitted By: kdahlen@ivwnet.com
 Tip: Planetarium Software. GoTo: http://www.hnsky.org/software.htm This software, HNSKY, in my opinion is the best FREE planetarium software for AutoStar controlled scopes that money can buy! (Sorry for the puns, couldn't resist). It will display all of the names of the objects in the sky, so you can print-out an area of the sky, and go out to your scope, and just start pluggin in numbers into Autostar. You can also change the level of magnitude at which it will display. Although it cannot do a range, which would be nice. If however, your into having your PC control Autostar, then Cartes du Ciel is a good choice. I personally, do not like using the PC because I think it's more of a pain that it's worth. With HNSKY, I can print out an area of the sky (like Zenith if I'm in my backyard), go outside to my scope, and browse that area without ever having to go back into the house. I also have the added bonus of not running the phone wire, and it getting in the way the whole time. My experience is that Autostar does a better job than a PC because of it's direct connection. For whatever reason, sometimes the PC connection just stops functioning. Why bother? The PC is better for getting overviews, Autostar can do the rest, and with HNSKY, no need for RA and DEC coordinates, just punch in it's Messier, NGC, or IC number and your off. GoTo: http://seds.lpl.arizona.edu/billa/astrosoftware.html and you can decide. Clear Skies!
Mount Tip
10/25/2002 8:27:26 PM
Submitted By: mykrowyre@yahoo.com
 Tip: Is your mount a little too tight in declination? If your mount binds in Dec, try loosening the two bolts which attach the dec housing to the ra housing. If it suddenly turns easily in dec, then the plastic spacers between the two halves are not sized correctly and are too thin. The binding is because the dec housing is deforming under pressure. You'll need to find some replacement washers. If you can't find the correct thickness washers, stack up a few washers and then take one and rub it against a file until it's thin enough for the correct spacing. They should be thick enough to prevent binding, but thin enough that the top edge and bottom edge of the dec housing make contact with the ra housing. Look closely because those edges are not flat or square, and may only contact at one little bump..thats ok as long as they touch. It would probably be a good idea to sand these surfaces so that they are flat and square, but hey some other time. ;) I ended picked up two 1/4" nylon washers from the hardware store and added a thin metal washer on top to get the spacing right. -tom
OTA Tip
10/23/2002 1:11:34 AM
Submitted By: akurei_uindo@yahooc.om
 Tip: I liked the idea of using a wagon for toting your instrument. A slightly different variation would be to use a suitable "luggage cart" or "two-wheeler" (Office Depot has a nice selection with capacities up to 250 lbs. or so) to haul your scope about creation. I plan on building a plywood storage case for the OTA and mount/tripod. Then, secure both the cases to the luggage cart via "mover's straps" (Webbed strapping. Some have "come-along" type devices for ensuring a secure binding). I plan on just hand carrying my 12-volt car battery. If that proves difficult, I will find a way to work it onto the luggage cart arrangement. A sealed lead acid batt. should be ok moving. I haven't quite decided on the battery system. There are "Gel-Type" batteries out that are zero maint. and last for a very long time. I just ordered my scope so I am already planning on how to transport it, etc.
Setup Tip
10/19/2002 12:08:32 PM
Submitted By: mykrowyre@yahoo.com
 Tip: Get a small wagon and put the tripod, EQ head, and accessories in the wagon. You can carry the OTA and pull the wagon along behind you. This way you can avoid making three trips to get all of the scope components from your car to your observing site. I live in the city and dont like the feeling of leaving anything unattended while running back for something else. -tom
Setup Tip
10/16/2002 9:20:09 PM
Submitted By: Sixspeed24@aol.com
 Tip: Richard, every user of this site should check out the Sky and Telescope magazine website. They have an interactive star map that will show you the constellations in your viewing area by zip code, and will also allow you to punch in the time, and watch the constellations change hour by hour. This is a really handy site. I believe the correct site is www.skypub.com,...if not, do a search for sky and telescope magazine. I hope this will help everyone. Jim
Setup Tip
10/10/2002 10:26:18 PM
Submitted By: jorge_877@hotmail.com
 Tip: I would want to know what is the little box at one end of the handbox cable, I put it at the Autostar controller end and it works properly, but I put it at the other end and Autostar does not work.
Setup Tip
10/10/2002 6:12:14 AM
Submitted By: jreddick@umich.edu
 Tip: Fingerprint removal from corrector plate.. I am not sure what to tell you to do, but I am absolutely certain about what NOT to do: the instruction manual describes a cleaning solution made of isopropanol and water. DO NOT use their procedure!!! I tried this and while the fingerprint was removed, this seemed to have some effect on the coatings. If I look at it an angle, I can sort of see where I was wiping with the solution. I don't know if its a stain, removed coating, or scratches. This really freaked me out, but the telescope still performs ok. If you are interested in cleaning this correcter plate, look up this site: http://www.arksky.org/ then go under the "Guides" section. There is an article there about a great cleaning solution and a procedure for using it. Obviously, I found this after I attempted to clean my scope, and I haven't tried this new procedure out yet. This guy wrote this specifically for the LXD55 series, I believe. Good luck! Jason
Optics Tip
10/8/2002 12:43:59 PM
Submitted By: jaguar2k@ameritech.net
 Tip: Just recieved my brand new 8" Schmidt Cassegrain with an LXD55 Mount. I preordered it in July, and Im one of the first 20 owners of this setup. Awesome scope. soooo much better than a rickety LX200 on a wedge WoW. On the first night out I was able to get perfectly aligned GOTOs, very little visual tracking error and easy as can be to polar align. Took only about an hour to polar align, then train the drives, and then easy goto align. In light polluted SW Michigan, and without filters. I was able to resolve M31 and its dark spiral bands and both sattelite galaxies, faint nebulosity in M45, cassini division and cloud bands in Saturn, all that before dew completely killed my viewing session. I had it coming though, i was 20 feet from a lake and it was 45 degrees that morning. LXD55 is the whoop
Mount Tip
10/1/2002 10:42:44 PM
Submitted By: jorge_877@hotmail.com
 Tip: My problem was that when assemblying my SN10 the R.A. mtors didn't work fine, so I checked and weeks later I realized that the reason for this was the position of the counterweights, I put them to high and the telescope was unbalanced, but then I lowered them a liitle, just 1.75 inches above the end of the counterweights shaft and I was amazed with the results, the mount works excellent.
Setup Tip
9/27/2002 8:53:40 PM
Submitted By: beck@conorbyrnepub.com
 Tip: An LXD-55GPS(SN)? Yes, I have achieved this "poor man's" version of a GPS scope. With my $99 GPS (no mapping) and a GREAT new watch from Timex. This is the Expedition watch with built-in electronic compass. The item to look for is #77862. It incorporates an avionics-grade magentic compass with 1 degree precision...and for just $55! I've attached the watch to the "star" North leg of my LXD-55 SN. It allows input of local magentic delciantion so what you see displayed to the degree on the watch dial is "True North". It is accurate and after zeroing in on on True North" it is easy to find Polaris ans setup the 4-star alignment in the reticle. Beyond that, I have found that even WITHOUT POLARIS alignment, I have been able to do a two-star alignment based onthe co-ordinates suplied by my cheap GPS and my Timex watch. There are many methods of attaching the watch, but Velco(tm) seems to work OK for me. => http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/seg/gmag/fldsnth1.pl
Mount Tip
9/22/2002 3:56:31 AM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: Home Depot carries a line of RustOleum spray paint in the greyish color: "Hammered Metal". An almost exact match for the LXD55 series scopes. Also, placing two very thin nylon washers under each of the large collimation screws (between the screw head and cell) will eliminate the eventual removal of paint underneath the knob. It also turns alot smoother.
Mount Tip
9/19/2002 4:20:50 PM
Submitted By: peterbruce@blueyonder.co.uk
 Tip: Mount Bubble Level. I have found it an advantage to fit a level onto the cast tripod base of the LXD mount. Having owned a EQ5 mount before (which had a level fitted) made me wonder why Meade did not fit one. The level used was a small circular bubble level which would fit onto the casting over one of the tripod legs - being in full view. The German mount is first removed and the tripod set up accuratly on a level base. Once adjusted it is a simple task to silicon the base of the small bubble level to the casting. Keep checking while the silicon cures and after it's dry replace the mount onto the tripod. You now have a true level to work from next time you set up in the field. Regards PETER BRUCE. UK.
Mount Tip
9/15/2002 10:59:14 PM
Submitted By: alanprowse@hotmail.com
 Tip: Battery performance in cold conditions. Have been using the telescope below 4 degrees Celcius. The battery drain and performance becomes noticably weaker. So much so that Autostar GOTO just wont. This was after 4 hours operating at these temperatures with all the equipment soaked in dew. The tracking and manual slow motion control on the Autostar work, but there is frequent total power loss when changes are made. Fresh batteries completely dead in under 8 hours. (standard heavy duty) Alkalines are better. However, best option use electricity or deep cycle 12V car battery. If you want to use the 8 D size batteries, I have found that a cheap battery powered hair dryer works well in keeping the temperature up. It is also great in keeping everything dry.
Mount Tip
9/14/2002 8:04:10 PM
Submitted By: tomstock@av.eastlink.ca
 Tip: Prevent loosing the reticle switch knob. Put a spring between the knob and the reticle cap. This will keep tension on the knob and prevent it from turning due to vibration. I made my spring from a peice of spiral notebook wire. -tom
OTA Tip
9/13/2002 12:13:48 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: I've posted some pics showing the focuser during build and mounted on the LXD55. Shots of parts both before and after modification. Posted in my folder in the LXD55telescope group - Warpcorp

To install the Meade 1240 electric focuser on the LXD55 4 speeds / dual motion / Autostar 497 controllable / plugs into the AUX port on the LXD55 control panel.

What you need: 1240 focuser / 3/8" shrink tubing / hair dryer or heat gun / superglue / sandpaper / 5/16" drill bit / brass washer / 2-o rings / pinion back from a DS127 scope (Meade sent me one at no charge).

READ ALL THE DIRECTIONS FROM THE 1240 FOCUSER FIRST THEN THESE BEFORE YOU START.

The pinion shaft on the LXD series is slightly larger and not as long as the one for the DS series (which the 1240 is designed for). Remove the four screws holding the retaining plate (u shaped metal bracket holding in the pinion shaft) and the LXD pinion. Unscrew one of the knobs from the shaft they are very tight. Find the black threaded collar assembly from the focuser kit. Remove the adjustment nut and all parts from the black threaded collar designed to fit over the shaft. Cut the small "nipple" from the threaded end of the threaded clutch collar sand the end smooth. Using the 5/16" drill, very carefully enlarge the opening in the collar till it fits over the end of the LXD shaft. you want this as snug as you can get it. You might start out with a smaller drill or even a dremel tool. Place the collar only over the shaft and replace the knob you just removed. Squirt some super glue on the large flange of the collar and carefully center it and glue to the inside of the knob DO NOT GET GLUE ON THE THREADS. Let it dry completely and then again unscrew the knob and remove your newly created knob clutch assembly.

Take the back plate from the DS127 and sand it down almost to the little holes drilled vertically through it. The standoff of the DS127 mount was greater than that of the LXD series. Without sanding it down, it will not fit close enough to the pinion shaft to engage the gears. Once you have it sanded down, turn to the metal plate you removed from the LXD focuser. Sand the black paint off of it. Center the metal LXD bracket onto the DS127 bracket (the one you just sanded), it is longer than the metal bracket. Flush one of the ends one end will be flush the other end will have the plastic DS127 bracket overhanging the metal bracket. With a pencil mark the four small mounting screws holes of the metal LXD bracket onto the plastic DS127 bracket. Drill out the holes on the plastic bracket. The holes MUST be drilled out enough to allow the heads of the screws from the LXD to pass through them.

Making sure both surfaces are clean, superglue the plastic bracket onto the metal bracket making sure the holes of the metal bracket are CENTERED in the holes of the plastic bracket. Don't worry if you make the holes in the plastic DS127 bracket too large you won't see them anyway. Put aside to dry.

Now assemble the clutch pinion assembly. Take the knob with the clutch shaft which you just glued together. Place an o-ring over the shaft and slide it up to the flange (I did not get the size I just went to the hardware store and bought two that fit snug over the clutch shaft). Next the nylon gear, then another o-ring, a brass washer (make sure the washer diameter is smaller than the teeth of the nylon gear), and finally the locking nut. Repeating the order: knob, clutch flange, o-ring, nylon gear, o-ring, brass washer, nut. This assembly will slide back over the pinion shaft.

Take a piece of shrink tubing and cut it to fit over the end of the pinion shaft with the knob removed. You want it to cover only the large end portion of the shaft. Leave about a 1/16 inch gap of metal showing at the inside flange – do not cover all the way to the center smaller shaft. Leave just enough hanging over the end with threads so that it "wraps" over the shoulder of the shaft when you heat it up with the hair dryer or heat gun. Now twist the knob and clutch assembly back onto the shaft. It will be tight and it will not go far enough to allow you to thread the knob back on. This will be a "friction" fit for now. Position the pinion shaft back in place and remount the retaining plate assembly using the 4 original screws. Do not tighten the 4 screws to tightly they control the ease of movement of the focusing mechanism. Tighten all 4 equally and test the feel of the focuser. It should be firm but easiy to turn with little drag.

On the back of the motor are two "rails". One is a "positioning rail, the other has brass threaded inserts. File down or use a dremel tool to grind off the ends of the rails – up to the brass threads. This is to make sure you have clearance for the screw heads holding on the bracket. Position the motor with the cord toward the corrector plate and the gear engaging the gear you installed on the pinion shaft. Mount the motor to the DS127 plate as indicated in the directions to the 1240. The cord of the motor will be facing the front (corrector plate) end of the scope. The gear will be towards the primary mirror end. Loosely insert the small allen screws from the 1240 kit till you engage the threads leave it loose for now until you get final positioning. You will have to move the knob/clutch assembly in or out ton the shaft till the two gears match up and mesh. Once you get them to match up tighten down the allen screws so the motor is tight.

If all is OK when you power up the focuser the two gears will be turning together. Tighten the large nut on the clutch assembly until there is enough friction for the focuser to move the focus tube and yet just loose enough that you can still turn the focuser by hand.

My clutch assembly was tight enough that this where I finished. You may have to "fiddle" with the alignment of the clutch assembly and knob till where it is in line with the shaft and not "wobbling" as it rotates. If it is not tight enough at this point, a shot of super glue between the end of the shaft assembly and the pinion shaft should fix it.

Mine is working smoothly and the control feature of the AutoStar is an added bonus.

ONE CAVEAT TO BE AWARE OF: Because of the nature of movement of the scope on the equatorial mount, there is not enough cord to go from the motor to the control panel AUX port. It reaches in home position but as you slew, you will rip it from the socket. I cut the cord and spliced in a 8 " length of 4 conductor coiled cord (like a radar detector cord). I run the straight wire from the motor to the cradle rings down under the scope and then let the coiled wire run from there to the AUX jack. This gives plenty of play for slewing and stretching.

Good luck hope this helps.

Mount Tip
9/13/2002 12:12:37 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: Cradle Mount Fix Remove the center adjustment screws from the cradle / ring assembly. Drill out the two holes to fit a new 7mm x 30mm allen head cap screw. Slit the felt on the opposite side of the mount in an "x" pattern and fold back and tape with masking tape. Thread the new bolts with larger washers through the holes, the spacer washers and into the mount. Place a lock washer and nut over the bolt and tighten. You will be able to get a much tighter fit with these bolts. Mix up a small batch of good 2-part epoxy and using a toothpick apply a generous amount around the base of the nut and lockwasher. Do NOT get any on the threads. Let harden for 1 hour. Now kneed a small 1" ball of epoxy potty until evenly mixed, soft and pliable. Roll up little balls of the putty and drop them in around the nut. I used a small allen wrench to pack them down around the nut until the cavity was filled up even with the top of the nut. In about 2 hours this will be hard enough to hold the nut in place. I would wait 24 hours before actually trying to tighten and loosen the mount. When set up, the putty will be like a rock casing around the nut.
Optics Tip
9/13/2002 12:11:42 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
 Tip: Absolute (well pretty darn close) collimation procedure.

READ THE ENTIRE PROCEDURE BEFORE YOU BEGIN. ENTIRE PROCESS TAKES ABOUT THREE HOURS BUT THE AWARDS ARE WORTH IT. THE SHARPEST CLEAREST IMAGES YOU WILL SEE!

What you need: Laser Collimator / Saran Wrap / 1/16" drill / black fine tip marker / white construction paper / ruler / scotch tape / patience. Optional: AutoCollimator EyePiece / White cotton gloves / long nose forceps.

I normally wear white cotton gloves with disposable plastic gloves underneath whenever handling optics. The plastic prevents any oils from my skin being absorbed into the cotton.

BEFORE REMOVING THE PRIMARY OR THE SECONDARY CELL/CORRECTOR PLATE ASSEMBLY, MARK ITS EXACT POSITION WITHIN THE OTA WITH MASKING TAPE SO YOU CAN RE-INSTALL IT IN THE EXACT SAME POSITION - DO THIS NOW.

Step 1: Insure that your focuser is perpendicular to the Optical Axis of the OTA.

Remove the Corrector Plat/Secondary assembly and the Primary cell. Remove the focuser and the finder scope mount from the OTA.

Take several sheets of the white construction paper and tape securely together to form a piece long enough to wrap smoothly around the inside of the OTA. Align the front edge of the paper flush with the edge of the OTA. Make it a smooth tight fit and tape the ends to form a cylinder. With the paper in place, mark the positions of the screw holes for the focuser. Remove the cylinder, cut out the holes for the screws slightly larger than the nuts that hold it on (you need the paper to fit back in the tube as smoothly as possible once the focuser is re-installed. Re-install the focuser.

Rack out the focuser so there is no intrusion into the OTA. Mount your laser in the focus tube. Make sure it is snug. You may have to shim it with a wrap or two of scotch tape. Once it is in the focuser, turn it and watch the dot on the opposite side of the tube. The dot should remain stationary. If it does not, either the laser within the collimator is not centered or the collimator itself is not centered in the focus tube. Rack the focuser in and out and watch for movement of the dot. Again, it should remain stationary. Adjusting the tension knob on the focuser may help this. If you can not get it to stay stationary, rack it all the way in and out and pick the mid point of movement (an average if you will). Leave or lock the focuser in this position.

Reinsert the paper cylinder carefully aligning it with the front edge of the OTA. Turn on the laser and from the inside of the OTA, mark the red dot on the paper with the black marker. Turn off the laser - do NOT remove it or move the focuser. Remove the paper cylinder and very carefully punch a clean 1/16" hole where you marked with the marker. Now flatten the cylinder so that the two long edges are aligned and the crease at one end is centered through the hole you just made. You now have long rectangle with a hole punched in one of the creases. Take a ruler and measure along the crease EXACTLY how far from the long edge of the paper is the hole. Transfer this measurement to the opposite end and mark the position on the that crease. Unfold the crease so you have a cylinder again and punch a 1/16" hole in this second mark you just made.

Reinsert the cylinder back into the OTA, line up the front edge with the OTA, turn on the laser and make slight adjustments to the position of the cylinder until the beam shines through the first hole you punched. The front edge of the paper should still be lined up with the edge of the OTA. If the beam is striking the second hole you punched - all is good - tighten down the focuser - evenly tightening all four screws so that the laser dot does not move off its target of the second hole. If it does not hit the "target", make adjustment to the four screws and shim the focuser with black construction paper until it does. Tighten everything down. Your focuser is now very very close to perpendicular to the OTA optical axis. You can verify this with your crosshair eyepiece if you have one. The crosshairs should be on the mark on the opposite side of the tube. Once you are satisfied with your results - Go to the next step. Leave the laser aligned (turned off) in the focuser.

Step 2: Aligning the secondary.

Keep in mind, if you place a very small dot on the exact center of the secondary you will not see it as it will be in its own shadow. That is the easy way. However, if that makes you queasy... follow these steps. Print out the "Secondary Target" templates which are posted in the files section. Very carefully cut one out and punch a small pin hole in the exact center (printed crosshair intersection.)

Carefully wrap the saran wrap over the surface of the secondary. Pull it tight and tape it down to the sides of the secondary with scotch tape. I leave a folded over tab on each piece of scotch tape so that I can reach in through the focuser when finished and remove it with a pair of forceps. Carefully position the target template over the secondary and mark the exact center with black marker. Re-install the corrector / secondary assembly aligning it with the marks you made previously so it is in its correct orientation. Turn on the laser or use your crosshair eyepiece to verify that the mark you just made on the secondary is under the crosshair of laser. If it is not, adjust the secondary front or back using its adjustment screws till the target is centered. Careful adjustments are needed - no big turns. Never loosen more than one screw at a time as you don't want the secondary turning if you can help it.

Once you have the target centered, tighten everything up. Reach in with the forceps and very carefully grab the scotch tape tabs and pull them off - removing the saran wrap.

Step 3: Aligning the primary.

Very carefully determine that the center mark on your primary is indeed the center of the mirror. There is a Mirror Template in the files folder. You can print it out on a piece of clear transparency or regular paper - your call. If it is not centered, you will either have to remove the existing ring and install your own, or leave it where it is. What your level of tolerance is will be your own choosing. Once you have determined that the center is marked correctly, then determine if the mirror is centered in the cell. Carefully measure from the slot in the cell that the OTA slides into to the center of the mirror (or use the template for mirror spotting. If it is centered, you are set. If it is not, then we have more work to do.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MARKED THE ORIENTATION OF THE PRIMARY MIRROR IN THE CELL AS YOU DID MARKING THE ORIENTATION OF THE CELL TO THE OTA. Carefully remove the 6 screws holding the mirror clips and remove the primary. Find the exact center of the mirror cell. You can measure with a ruler, use a compass, or the center spot template. Drill a 1/16" hole through the exact center (this should be the piece of cosmetic plastic attached to the cell. Remount the primary cell. Turn on the laser and adjust the secondary collimating screws (small three screws) until the laser exits through the 1/16" hole. Now the secondary to primary path is aligned with the central optical axis of the OTA - this is a good thing.

Now remove the empty cell and remount the primary into the cell. Turn on the laser. If your primary is centered within the cell and if the center mark is accurate, the laser should be hitting the center of primary center spot donut. If it is not, you will have to "shim" / shift the primary within the cell until it does. Trial and error is the proven method here. Now is a good time to perform that clipectomy to remove those spike inducing mirror clips by siliconing the mirror to the primary cell. I used 9 globs of silicone, set the mirror in the cell, installed the clips using round toothpicks to "wedge" shim the mirror while the silicone was curing. Once you get the laser centered on your doughnut ring target - set the mirror aside and allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours. After that you can remove the clips, cut off the overhang and finish the clipectomy with the second application of silicone. Wait another 24 hours - re-install the primary mirror cell. If all is good - when you turn the laser back on, the dot should be in the exact center of the mirror cell (assuming you have not had any major temperature swings during this process). I did mine in the basement where temperature and humidity is pretty much constant. Even if you have to make a slight tweak adjustment after final assembly - it is alot more accurate than when it arrived after carefully handling by UPS.

From this point on, after set up and temp acclimation - a quick 1 minute laser alignment is all that is needed to get really sharp detailed views. I end using the lock down screws on the primary cell as my fine tune collimation screws after I get close with the big knobs. If you get right on with the big knobs - tightening the lock screws will move the laser beam and thus affect collimation.

The real test of how good your collimation is can be done with a device (ep) called the AutoCollimator. When it is inserted into the focus tube, if all is aligned perfectly, you will get a "closed" optical path. All you will see is a dark circle in the center of the secondary as it is the reflection of the dark of your eye's pupil.

The f/ratio will have no effect on this as you are not "projecting" any holograms. You are simply aligning the light path from your eye -> secondary -> primary ->secondary ->eye. Simple geometry and a few tweak adjustments.

This works for me... any suggestions and comments are welcome.

Hope you enjoy it - good luck - and good viewing.

Mount Tip
9/12/2002 9:51:09 PM
Submitted By: sog@bigpond.com
 Tip: Greetz from Oz (Australia)! When assembling the mount, I would recomend setting your local latitude *before* attaching the weights (esp. on the 10"!). Once attached the weights are *bloody* heavy and make for a difficult ajustment/alignment time. I read somewhere else on the site about leaving the scope on an uneven surface *without* the OTA attached. Take Note!!! This has happened more than once to me, even after adjusting the mount so it wouldn't fall (soft ground). Buying 8xD sized batteries is an exercise in Third World invesment spending. Avoid unnessesary investment increases by moving the 'scope *manually*. Not only will you learn (quickly) which is the Alt and which is the Dec knobs, you'll save batteries (and money), you'll wear and tear on the motors, and you'll get more 'hugs' from your 'scope this way. :) I've only had my 'scope now for 2 weeks and only actually looked at a darkened sky once (freakin evening clouds). I purchased the 'scope for the sole purpose of astrophotography, and I hope to be posting some Southern images over the next few weeks.
Setup Tip
9/12/2002 8:08:35 PM
Submitted By: paulo.lima@sympatico.ca
 Tip: I would like to post a tip for new LDX55 users, here is my story ...

After buying a LXD55 SN 10" I came back home from work all excited to set it up. I followed the instruction in the manual and some time saving tips from this portal and go the telescope all set in the manual mode. As I didn't have any batteries I ran to the supermarket to by the 8 D cell need to supply the 12 VDC using the battery pack.

I carefully inserted the batteries (it's really hard to misplace them anyways) and plug all the electronics, turn the switch on and ... nothing happened, actually the wire was heating up.

Checked and recheck until I decided to take the mount back to the store the next day. Once at the store we tried my battery pack on the LXD55 on display and it also did not work, then we compared my battery pack with the display telescope battery pack and they were identical (which means the other telescope would not work either). The store had a power supply, we tested the computer on my mount and it beeped happilly.

When comparing the voltage between the battery pack and the power supply we notice that the polarity was reversed. Incredible but true! To cut short a already long story we cut the wire and reverted them back to what they should be and then everything worked.

So the tip is, if you get a new LXD55 and you computer does not work, measure the voltage on you battery pack, if the positive is not in the core of the connector it's wrong, just cut the wires and switch them (don't forget to insulate them and so on.

Happy stargazing.

Paulo Lima

Setup Tip
9/12/2002 6:24:55 PM
Submitted By: kdahlen@ivwnet.com
 Tip: Autostar my not slew in Quiet Mode. Switch quiet mode Off, make one slew, and turn Quiet Slew back on for proper operation. Additional note: Automatic slew speeds cannot be altered by trying to change speeds by pressing the number buttons. Pressing the number buttons only changes manual slew speeds.
Mount Tip
9/11/2002 5:48:49 PM
Submitted By: rharris@elvis.com
 Tip: Just to alert all who own a 10" Scope -
The mount uses 3 -10 lb. counter weights.
This makes is VERY unsteady when there is no Scope ontop, so be careful when you are setting up -especially if you are on un-level groud!
Your scope could CRASH to the ground due to it's unbalanced state!
OTA Tip
9/11/2002 10:52:25 AM
Submitted By: Richard
 Tip: Share your knowledge relating to the OTA (Optical Tube Assembly).
Special Attachments? Collimation? Anything OTA related!